Price is for ONE  knuckle joint , you cannot mix with the old OE type on the same axle, minimum purchase is TWO per axle or 4 per car. That would be like fitting a radial tyre and a cross-ply on the same axle (cross -ply would be the O.E design;-))
Redesigned and manufactured in the UK by Mike Satur. British made for British cars.
Now with min 2 year warranty if serviced and fitted correctly!! Buy the best available!
Now also available from Rimmer Bros.Part no RGG001219P1

Knuckle joint assembly with superior aluminium housing (now anodised red from 10/3/23), greatly exceeding the quality of the original plastic version. The ball and cup design with a greasing nipple allows maintenance and therefore prolongs the life without having to dismantle. The pin and cup are case hardened to a depth of 0.5mm for long life by Summitglow in Sheffield. Note:  case hardening the surface finish will change the machined steel from a shiny finish to a dark grey mottled colour due to the heat and quencing operations, this is normal and evidence that the part has been treated correctly. If you see a lowering pin being sold that is shiney then it hasn't been heat treated and should be avoided as it will wear rapidly!! It's easy to test if a part has been heat treated and hardened by running a metal hacksaw blade across the surface ..a heat treated/hardened part will not mark.
Inevitabily if you try and remove an old knuckle the plastic housing is brittle and will shatter,this new aluminium design prevents this.
NOTE! The OE top arm internal dia can vary due to inconsistant machining during manufacture probably caused by worn tooling ,poor quality control or various supply manufacturers, this can be seen by the O.E. knuckle joint refusing to come out easily and resulting in the plastic breaking.Due to the fact that plastic will distort easily when being assembled the tolerances weren't that critical. When attempting to fit the aluminium MS knuckle housing you may experience a reluctance for them to fit correctly. The inner diameter should therefore be checked against the aluminium diameter and be sanded with a rotary flap wheel until it is possible to insert the cup. Note: The aluminium cup is machined on a HAAS machining centre that has the optimum diameter programmed so every one is the same to within .0001", these are checked in a stock new top arm before assembly. In any event if the cup isn't seated fully into the arm it will not affect how the knuckle joint will work or the ride height providing it is sealed tightly to prevent water ingress, if in doubt you could seal the joint with a bonding sealer. Once fitted fully grease the knuckle as per the instructions.
The top arm has to be drilled and tapped with a M6 thread to allow the grease nipple to be screwed in for scheduled greasing and then removed and replaced with the M6 blanking screw. The grease nipple cannot be left in as it will hit the bump stop and snap.One nipple is supplied for two or 4 knuckles.

Available in lowered!!. Please use in pairs on the same axle, two on the front, two on the rear or four per car!! Use set of 4 if lowering.

Replaces original part number RGG001219EVA which is currently made in India and is more expensive??!! Remember your car is a MG not a Tata! So say ta ta to imported products and buy a better quality product from a UK manufacturer.
UPDATE 25/2/23 new tweaks to the design (see 3rd photo) enables the boot to locate better on the pin and aluminium housing and O ring seal groove now cut to 2mm dia to avoid distortion and better location. Boot is now silicone rubber! Which is more flexible and not as prone to perishing/tearing!! Nothing more embarrasing then have your rubber tear..and fail a MOT;-) No point in manufacturing a part if you can't improve it !! The O.E knuckle joint hasn't moved on in 30+ years!!
Best value for money knuckle on the market far exceeds the OE specification and 2 year min warranty if lubricated and installed correctly. Makes the stock part obsolete!!

The design has a greater surface area between the bearing surfaces and will give a much longer service life.  The original parts are a knife edge point load (rocker joint) which will increase the wear of the components especially without lubrication.  You can see the rust and wear on a standard knuckle joint in the last photo, there is no way these can be lubricated in service without dismantling  and are always left unlubricated which leaves them to wear badly and once you have gone through the surface hardening it produces various noises and squeaks.Now there is a solution that will probably be the last set of knuckles you will need. Because we manufacture these parts we also carry spares so if the rubber boot perishes you can buy a new one for a couple of quid. Try doing that for one made in India!
Warning! If you have fitted a Coil in a can 'suspension' ( you have my commiserations ) then the standard knuckle joints will wear rapidly and cause squeaks bangs and knocks! The manufacturers recommend you change them! Check the manufacturer's recommendations on how to fix the squeaks,knocks and banging after installing the kit!! The O.E. design was never meant to take an impact load created when using a spring instead of a hydragas unit someone should have mentioned that! I can't believe they took two years developing that kit and omitted to do something with the knuckle joint!.Just look at a used knuckle in the last picture!! never been greased during service and the plastic cup has gone brittle and fractured whilst trying to remove it.!
NOTE I'm not recommending you use  a CIAC kit but if you have then these MAY help with the banging,knocking and squeaking!!
Check out my new stainless steel top arm pivots and oilite bearings and fit the full kit for peace of mind!! No more knocks bangs or greasing!!

Note shipping price may vary due to quantity ordered.

Combined postage is available when multiple products are ordered.