MGF and MGTF Stainless Steel Subframe mounts large and small . 10 YEAR WARRANTY!!
Item code: SSSFMset100
(Ex £226.00)
MGF and MGTF Stainless Steel Subframe mounts large and small
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Stop press!! New design!! Even with steel prices rapidly rising I have re-designed this product and made it even better! How?? By making it lighter (a weight saving of 1.2Kg on a full set of mounts!!) without compromising strength,removing material from non stressed areas, and keeping the price the same as the special offer price!!

I believe these are the best quality and value for money you can buy and you will never have to replace them! I offer a 10 year guarantee on these parts, if I'm still alive!! 
Why do we need these??   Firstly, the early MGF cars had rubber inserts to isolate the road noise, this was from the days of the Metro and much later the suspension was hi-jacked for the MGF. These were changed to solid mounts on cars from approx 2001 and all the later TF's. The rubber deteriorates and causes the subrames to squirm under acceleration/braking forces and also causes the subframes to 'submarine' into the body. This is not desirable and to sharpen up the handling I recommend they are swapped out for these solid types.
Secondly, the small mounts can rust out and be a MOT failure (in the UK) not to mention a badly corroded mount which could fail is not  good!! This seems to be especially prevalant on the later TF's . Did they make them from re-cycled beer cans ;-) ??
Thirdly, the contact patch on the rear of the car for the smaller mounts is marginal,coupled with (in my opinion) an under-designed mount for the loads on the rear of the car can cause the mount to flex. My new design mount uses 4 fixings and a larger mounting plate which sits more comfortably on the rear body mount ( the O.E. design fixings are located on the outer most position on the mounting bracket, see photod 5/6 , from an engineering point of view this is not the best position as it loads the bracket up eccentrically) and once fitted there is no need to remove them again as the mounts remain fastened to the body if ever you need to drop the subrames for any maintenance.
Fourthly, I've never been convinced that just two M8 screws were sufficient for the loads on the rear small mount,braking,acceleration, cornering loads. The rear large mount has 3or4 M10 screws.

Supplied as a car set of 4 small and 4 large mounts with all necessary fixings. 
This new design changes the way we use this part. The old design had to be removed from the chassis if removing the subframe.

In an ideal word they need to be retained to the chassis and the subframe detached from the mounts so when the subframe is re-mounted to the body the alignment is still the same otherwise a geometry check is necessary which means more expense. 
This new design I have made allows the subframe to be detached and the actual mount stays bolted to the chassis so maintaining the same alignment/thrust angles.(camber/caster may change if you are altering or changing components)
Made from 304 stainless steel,the boss is turned and rebated using CNC machining  and the one piece plate is laser cut for accuracy and  dove-tailed together in a machined rebate so alignment is perfect and then beautifully TIG welded, this new design is more accurate, stronger and easier to use and hopefully cheaper than the stock or copied parts that are dubiously manufactured.Even without welding the components would still hold together!
There are some made with a tube and two plates welded on the sides..this is not a great design or an upgraded part as claimed,it is done for cheapness! Invaribly the two plates distort during welding so when bolted and tightened they will become stressed along the welds!! This is a source of weakness in the 'design' and not good engineering! Even the stock parts are made from one plate..
These parts come with all the bolts/washers and  high tensile M10 and M8 (10.9) screws required and the M14 long bolts.Plus 8 high tensile inserts for the rear small mounts.
The rear small mounts  accomodate 4 screw fixings compared to 2 on the stock,this holds the mount much more securely onto the chassis,  they have a larger mounting plate (this also spreads the load over a bigger area and resists any turning forces imposed during accelerating/braking) and are supplied with special high tensile inserts that can be blind fixed into the chassis. The reason being the stock screws are nortorious for seizing and snapping off . By using these new high tensile fixings,4 per mount, the mount is more secure and easier to fit compared to trying to drill and tap out the old seized rusty captive nuts. The two M8 screws and the small surface area of the standard mount deflects under load, this new design with 4 screws is much more rigid. Always use all 4 fixings per rear mount.
If you costed out buying stock parts with all the fixings/screws/bolts/nuts they would come to around £410 plus vat!! Making these a bargain and the last set you will ever need!
Stop press!! 22/09/23 I have made special studs 150mm long for the rear subframe mounts instead of the 140mm long bolt which had to be fitted from the front of the subframe. This fouled the engine and meant the engine mounts had to be dismantled to allow the engine to move and give sufficient clearance to fit the bolt. Now the stud can be fitted to the mount and into the subframe from the rear, a half lock nut and nyloc nut is then fitted from the front and tightened.To remove, the stud can be released by undoing the half lock nut against the nyloc.
The additional cost for the rear mounts have been added to the price.See last two photos.

How to fit the rear small mounts using the M8 Riv-nuts:
Align the existing two holes and bolt the new mount into place, this will allow the two remaining holes to be marked out and drilled. Use a smaller pilot drill first, a 6mm drill should suffice. Remove the two screws and drill through with a 11mm drill repeat for the two forward holes.( if you only have a 10mm dril the use a round file to enlarge the hole untill the riv-nut can be tapped in) . Using the correct Riv-nut pliars insert the Riv-nuts. Repeat for the other side. If the two existing screws have sheared off drill those out first and use the Riv-nuts to secure the subframe mount and mark out the two forward holes.
Please select the correct option for your requirements.
If looking for a lightweight version see our aluminium ones finished in red anodising.
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Customer Reviews (1)
Surprised how much difference it has made
Bought rear set because I was having new clutch and MS’s clutch release lever as I intend to keep the car long term. I was pleasantly surprised by how much more solid the rear felt when I got the car back. There was some rust on the back mounts apparently and since the fronts rust worse than the back I then got the fronts done too. Back made more difference to the solid feel than front but I’m really pleased with the result over all. No worry about MOT failure from that known problem in future either.