Baker

SS door pins Work well if your doors are beginning to creak or sag but not as easy a job as might at first seem. Doors are heavy & tend to lever - it’s all too easy to knock paint off the edges done on your own! I suggest: Recruit 1 mate. Draw round the hinges where fixed to A-frame and door with a marker pen. Disconnect strap. Open door fully. Support door weight underneath & stop it tipping inward and outward so it doesn’t pull on electric cable. Don’t put any weight on sill or car seat while job is being done. Take out hinges one at a time repair & replace. Bottom first, out, on bench, circlip off, pin out, bushes out - oem are black plastic with metal ring inside but shredded by time of replacement. New SS bushes push in easily. A little grease. Re-assemble tapping pin ‘splines’ into previous indents in hinge & put on circlip. Refit hinge lining up to pen marks drawn on A frame and door. Repeat with top hinge. Refit strap. You may need to readjust hinges and/or door catch on B frame but this method protects edge of door from damage and makes realigning door easier.(according to me).

Thorne

I wasn't sure of the extent of the corrosion but thought I could cut down and reduce the work involved! Well once I started cutting the corrosion was far worse. The Repair panel is exactly right to get back to good solid metal. The fit was excellent and the effort involved was probably less than trying to do a small patch!

Baker

Results In the end I had to ask for expert help including repairing my slightly chipped paintwork. However now both doors open & close smoothly without even the suggestion of a creak. The shut lines are neat in all directions. Closure makes a consistent seal from the doors to the door frames and of the door windows to the hood. A persistent low level rattle by behind the driver’s right elbow has disappeared. This was not an easy job but restores one aspect of the car to what it should have been.

Dutton

Save a bit of weight, help air flow from radiator and must help subframe rigidity. Had Subframe out last year for a front end overhaul. If your going down this route we'll worth purchasing. Had trouble with one bolt out of line, 2 minutes with file, elongate hole a fraction all sorted. This is not a bad reflection on the part just original build quality of the subframe.

Moon

Just had my MGF rear NS sill and inner arch plates done with these parts, sill clamped in position well after angle grinding old bit out, the inner arch plate for the same area also welded in well, I used a slightly tapered wooden peg in the round holes to line it up and hold it in position. Looks good now saved time and effort, thanks for these items.